I returned to my garden this week worn out. After a long drive north to a speaking engagement, but an even longer flight and overnight experience south to a conference destination an equal distance away, I began an early morning weeding session this morning and let my thoughts wander into what the actual hell has happened to air travel in the space of two short decades.
For those who have never seen the inside of a private jet; or for those who turn right, not left, when they board an aircraft, the experience of commercial flying today can only be described as a tragicomedy in three acts.
Pat down. Sit down. Stuff down the memories of how things used to be.

O Washington! O Lincoln! Where did we go wrong?!?
Flying The [Un]Friendly Skies
Best to forget the genuine smiles. The customer service. The full-fare vouchers they offered us when a flight was occasionally oversold. (How we relished those golden opportunities in our threadbare twenties!) Now we wait quietly and accept the satire graciously. We get where we are going with no connection to how we wanted to do it. Or how we paid to do it.
And between the check-in and [eventual] landing –– we nod and smile and take our camera out of our backpack for this security checkpoint, and our shoes off for that security checkpoint and nod and smile again when we are rudely barked at to keep our cameras in and our shoes on and why the hell would we be doing anything else?
Nod and smile. Nod and smile. Dear God. Nod and smile.

The only ones having any fun here are on the screens.
Some Animals Are More Equal Than Others
If you are lucky enough to board the airplane, then you must then squarely face the poor life choices that brought you to this moment. Here, an experience once thought of as exciting and [literally] uplifting for the everyday man has turned into a disturbing snapshot of haves and have-nots, and your place in the have-nottery.
And it’s gone far beyond First Class and the rest of us. Or even Expense Account and the rest of us. Contentious strata have materialized in the wider world of Economy, where tight seating in 1997 has turned into three or four categories of how tight do you want it? Will you pay for it? Does the idea of being able to move your knees during the flight supersede the need to pay your electric bill this month?
Erase from your memory the days of bulkhead seats available for young mothers with babies — unless they happen to have a spare 120+ bucks to throw at the problem – as of course most young mothers do.
Free yourself of ‘free’ exit rows for six foot five dads who tried to book early to secure some measure of comfort (and still have four other seats yet to pay for).

Taking the edge off when you can find it helps. Even in a Starbucks (gotta love Heathrow!)
Forget the Frills. I’d Settle For Just Getting There.
As I boarded my latest delayed flight and caught a glimpse of the champagne glasses filled for Executives and Upgrades and who-the-hell-can-afford-to-send-their-two-young-children-First-Classers, I admit, I had a moment.
And the moment might have ended as I busied myself with negotiating invisible middle-class space for my carry-on and knees – except that we didn’t take off.
Instead, we sat on the tarmac during the dinner hour without even a glass of water for 90 minutes until the pilot cried Uncle, or rather “operational issues”, and we all got off the plane and began another ordeal of begged late-night crummy hotels and $12 food vouchers for a pretzel and a coffee dinner at Auntie Anne’s.
Wait, scratch that. My ticket evidently didn’t qualify for the pretzel.
My seat companion cried Uncle too – over a much-anticipated tournament he’d planned to attend with his son. The trip had already been shortened the day before by one cancelled flight, and now on the second, his course was obvious – give up.
He was dressed so beautifully. Like the old days when flying was special. His son was my age, and he told me with a handsome smile, “don’t get old, it’s not fun.” No fun for him certainly. He had to once again negotiate the 80 miles back home from the airport. No flight. No tournament. No son. All dressed up and no where to go.
But damn he looked good amongst a sea of spandex and sweatpants and is-that-man-seriously-wearing-his-pajamas?

Hours later, shuffling off to a begged hotel (too-recently experienced in April), I left a colleague bound for Toronto sitting forlornly in an empty 10pm terminal. He’d been on hold with customer service for eighty minutes. “Save yourself.” he joked. He didn’t know it but he was still two overnights away from his own bed.
Smile and nod. Smile and nod.
Thank You Sir, May I Have Another?
And so we do. We have no recourse. No private jets to charter while we admonish lesser beings in the saving of the planet. No rabid lawyers on speed dial to sort our Carbon Credit Indulgences or recoup precious money lost in missed connections or missed vacation hours. No assistants to rebook us while we take some self-care time in the airport lounge.
We take the crumbs offered and tightly smile, knowing well that the person offering is probably overworked and definitely overwhelmed and denied the tools they need to do their jobs properly.
Our desire to be kind is used against us. Be kind in this moment now. There is no one with any power to truly make this better. You’ll only upset everyone, and anything above a fierce whisper will surely attract the attention of the humourless TSA anyway.
Nope. Wait till you eventually get home and the fury cools, so you can choose from a list of acceptable questions to send a chatbot, or have a stilted conversation with an agent in a country 4000 miles away. Perhaps they’ll give you $50 vouchers towards future nightmare travel during non-blackout dates.
That won’t even buy leg room in an exit row these days.

Instead we direct our snark through pointless social media posts that make us feel better. Or do they?
And BTW – Clothing Is For Vain People
When the no-frills-we’re-all-in-this-together Southwest Airlines becomes the carrier with the biggest frills — namely two free checked suitcases — we’ve officially got a serious problem on our hands.
Who could have guessed (apart from Southwest’s prescient CEO in 1971) that the once obvious necessity of packing more than three pairs of underwear, a jacket, and an extra pair of shoes for two weeks in Milwaukee to see your parents was a luxury worth an extra $70? For you, your spouse, and your three kids. Legroom? No, I’ll just take the underwear, thank you.
If it wasn’t so tragic, it would be laughable.
Voyage of the Damned
Am I wrong to set these thoughts down? After all, from speaking engagements to conferences to garden touring, a great deal of my professional career relies on an once-established framework clearly breaking down. I often say that I am not paid to speak as much as I am paid to endure the travel required to get there.
Those of us who know that Zoom is a poor substitute for one-on-one engagement with our fellow human beings have learned to drive to the limits of our check engine lights. And when GoogleMaps says “no freaking way are you driving that” we gird our loins and set our minds on the eventual pleasure of the destination – when we can finally get there.

You can’t do this on Zoom. Andy Pulte, Dan Benarcik, Me and Irvin Etienne at this year’s Perennial Plant Association Symposium in Asheville, North Carolina.

Or this: Me, Scott Beuerlein, Carol Reese, Kyra Back and Allen Bush at the PPA trivia night.

Or this: An after hours tipple with podcaster Leslie Harris at Great Dixter, East Sussex, UK.

Or indeed this: Charles Hawes, Anne Wareham and I share a bench and a moment at their garden in Wales.
The thing is, the flight used to be vaguely pleasurable for the everyday man – no champagne required. We simply asked for kindness, value for money, and a genuine respect for a customer making a big investment.
I remember. And I ain’t that old. – MW
Nooooooooooooooooooo. That’s awful. How will I ever persuade you to visit again?? A ship???
Have you taken the transatlantic QM2? I’ve been fortunate to go on it several times, but not transatlantic. Would love to do a transatlantic for Chelsea. Also “economy “ class. (Have noticed a Decline in food quality).
No I haven’t Linus. Fairly certain that’s waaaay out of my budget. 😉 Bucket list perhaps.
Fly Jet Blue. Newest AirBus planes have lots of legroom in every seat with 3 seats on one side, only two on the other. Quiet, smooth on-time flights. Logan Airport works well and new Concourse E and expanded concourse C are a pleasure, packed with conveniences, tons of plug-in’s with counters for your devices & fun twirling stools. Several nice food courts with lots of choices and fresh SEAFOOD.
Once they get the Sullivan Tunnel re-opens, even getting there won’t be hard.
Probably best not to fly in High Season Tourist Vacation Time.
If you can avoid it.
Rose and I spent a wonderful week on Holbox Island in the Yucatan last February. The flight home to Louisville, through Houston, was my miserable life-in-flight undoing. We buckled up two rows from the rear restrooms, took off and the man across the aisle began throwing up. The attendant replaced the tiny barf bag with a huge plastic garbage bag. He continued throwing up. Was he sick with monkeypox? (They now ask you, when you go to the doctor’s office, if you’ve been exposed to monkey pox or Covid. What the hell is monkeypox?) For most of the endless flight I was sure we’d end up deplaning in Houston, and met by CDC special forces in Hazmat suits. We didn’t get the pox. I finally figured the poor guy must have been hammering shots of schnapps in the airport bar before he got on board. I would be very happy if I never got on a plane again.BTW…Great to see you in Asheville!
There are so many levels of awful here Allen I feel like buying you a drink when I next see you. Glad it wasn’t compounded by airline issues. – MW
Travel rip:
NEVER FLY UNITED
The photo of the Dressing well sign.. was it taken in MIddleburg?? Looks like it to me.
Yes – well spotted! – MW
Stay home and plant more trees. It’s the only climate-smart solution to traveling woes.
Great thanks for expressing so eloquently what so many of us think.
I don’t disagree about what you wrote–at least all that I could read of it. But I couldn’t finish reading your post because of the ads that now appear (and are replaced eventually by additional ads) right on top of your paragraphs; the ads are not just interspersed between and around paragraphs anymore, they cover the writer’s text….
I’m sorry to hear this Sabra. We’ll have a look at the ad regulator – they sneak in the frequency of the ads and sometimes we do not know, but we certainly don’t wish this to be our readers’ (our our) experience. – MW
Have-nottery is a great term which I am going to adopt.
Sometimes not dressing well is a sign of being part of the have-nottery, though. (Trust me, where I live, thrift stores will not put you in a well dressed category.) Sometimes, the plant budget uses up the extras in all the other budget categories.
Glad you like it – permission to steal granted.
I’ve been shopping thrift stores for my wardrobe, kitchen, home, etc… since I was a teenager in many different small towns and cities. Fortunate to have a mother who taught me it was a game, not an exercise in deprivation (although it was 100% necessary) And if you go often enough and are willing to search, it’s amazing what can be found. Got our student loans paid off and two kids raised on one income with that strategy! – MW
Southwest. There is nothing else.
Comfortable seating. Easy boarding process. Every seat is the same. Except for the even more comfortable exit row seats.
For $30 more than your $129 ticket you can be one of the first to get on the plane.
Or it was perfect. We’ll see what Mr corporate investor does to my airline.
Southwest, because everyone else is just expensive stearage class.
I couldn’t be paid enough to fly these days.
I agree Matt. I’ve been a loyal Southwest customer for thirty years. And when they royally screwed up two years ago during the holidays, their reaction was a heartfelt apology, all money refunded, and a voucher for a free flight in the future. They totally owned it. Contrast that with the @#$#$ I just got from American when I complained about this flight and the one before it and they sent an email telling me how valuable my feedback was and they couldn’t wait for me to fly again with them. With United, I had to go to the Better Business Bureau to get my money back on a flight they cancelled.
However, Southwest has lost some of my business because there used to be non-stops to California to Sacramento or San Jose, and now there are none. Also, they too have been more unreliable with cancelling flights. I flew Southwest because of the luggage, but also because it felt like we were all in it together. This idea of starting to pick your seat (which will mean differently priced tiers) is going to create the same situation we are in with the other airlines. I fear that what made Southwest great is going to disappear. – MW
Glad you finally got some rain! Hope the creek was well behaved!
Yes, loyal to Southwest 100%. My niece was caught up in that last crazy meltdown.
But she’s been flying for free for the last couple of trips thanks to Southwest’s generous compensation.
Southwest is sincere about their apologies.
Lol, I do miss the nonstops! That is dramatically reduced now. Don’t mind stopping by The Silver Diner in BWI, but hate the full day of travel vs 2.5 hours and done.
Latest airline happiness is setting up Global Traveler. More fun than DMV so far.
I was the lone stranded Canadian who bumped into you wild-eyed at 10 pm in the Asheville Airport. That turned out to be day one in what spiralled into a three-day nightmare of attempting to fly back to Toronto with multiple delays and then cancellations on two different airlines. It’s normally around three hours flying time.
I have since heard that Storm Debbie was somewhat to blame for the massive glut and ineptitude of the airlines. Clearly, Asheville airport has no capacity to handle the mass influx of tourist/visitors and basically shut down for the better part of two days. American Airlines had a total of two people on hand to handle a massive clusterf**ck of frustrated folks trapped in the terminal.
Despite all the cancellations, I had to foot the bill for two nights of scuzzy airport hotels and endless phone calls to rebook tickets etc. Hell-ish!
I agree with you that there is no substitute for interacting with real people in real time. But the travel nightmare had me cursing otherwise. I set off again in September to speak at a Festival in Italy, leaving with plenty of time beforehand in case this happens again.
Tony I am so sorry that happened to you, but I am very glad that you did come down to Asheville – especially as you had an award to pick up!!! It was tremendous to see you, but I agree, the experience makes one think twice about future travel. Enjoy Italy!
I assume it was the connections that did you in because Western NC wasn’t even affected by Hurricane Debby. We would have appreciated some that rain
Truth spoken here.
once i started using the wheelchair service, worrying about missing a connection because running is now a distant memory, i stopped complaining about flying. no, its not fun, but neither is sitting in stalled traffic, getting lost in strange cities, rental car breakdowns, and god forbid, actual wrecks.
Just one more example of the enshittification (author unknown) of everything from automobiles to cell phones to computers to rice cookers … esp including all those alleged software ‘upgrades’ that mostly make formerly easy things more complex at best, often totally impossible and prone to failure.
Flying out of Asheville is often a nightmare. There’s the many years of construction going on at the airport, with most of it closed in the meantime and nothing in the same place as the last time you were there, then add in the decades of construction on I-26 to even get there plus the many-times-a-week wrecks shutting down the highway. Don’t forget the inadequate parking (at big city prices), if you’re coming in from the local area, and the often missing shuttles should you have to park in a remote lot. Also fun–boarding outdoors in the rain/heat/cold because there are no loading bridges, the inadequate and frequently closed bathrooms, lack of food, etc. etc.
Asheville currently serves more passengers than Huntsville AL with a metropolitan population and airport far larger. It’s going to be a while before any of it improves. Personally, I drive anywhere less than 8-10 hours away
Woof! Thank you for the warning!
Biltmore and Ashville are bucket list items. Norfolk, Virginia to Ashville NC is almost a 7 hour drive. Guess it will be worth driving. Might do it in the fall and enjoy the leaves changing colors.
According to The Atlantic, the cost of airfare has dropped by about 50% since 1978. A flight between New York and London on Pan Am in 1960 would have cost $300 — or about $2,600, adjusted for inflation. So how have ticket prices fallen while fuel, planes and labor have all gone up? The airlines cut services for one. They also cram more people into smaller seats that are closer together and do their best to be sure every seat is filled. And some things that used to be included in the price no longer are such as food, checked baggage, etc. More a-la-carte, just like television is becoming. So flying is cheaper than ever….if you don’t mind being in a cattle car with wings and cramming all your needs into a bag that will be stuffed into an overhead compartment. A new class of service is expanding which is called premium economy, which is actually replacing a lot of first class and business class. Cheaper than first or business, but more expensive than cattle class.
What the US really needs is a much better railroad system with high-speed trains!
Bravo!
I believe it. Been flying since the early 80’s. You didn’t get on a plane back then unless it was important. 2 or 3 days drives were expected. And still cheaper than the airfare.
Do miss being able to smoke cigarettes on the plane, back when I smoked.
Lived that entire decades long transition. Remember smoking in hospital waiting rooms.
Some things have definitely improved for the better!
Current airfare is a bargain. Even if they are now just Greyhound with wings.
Southwest still takes a lot of the sting out of horrible airlines with their usually wonderful service and still reasonably comfortable seating.
Lol, never flying Delta again! Couldn’t get comfortable. And that was on a long company trip. Seating inches difference was about 3 to 4 inches less on Delta from the butt of my seat to the back of the seat in front of me. Forget leg room. There wasn’t any knee room. This was around 2011. Couldn’t figure out what was wrong until I measured it with handspans and confirmed it several months later on another perfect Southwest flight.
If you visit Ashville, stay at the Grove Park Inn. It’s historic, beautiful, and well worth the price. Have stayed there several times and was always enchanted with the structure, history and charm.
I had a wonderful and memorable lunch at the Grove Park Inn with a friend during a rainstorm on this trip. Fantastic view! – MW
Woah. The prosecco was the only good thing about your terrible essay. As long as there’s alcohol, I say. Funny, air travel is so completely awful, but it’s kind of like giving birth. You get where you’re going and forget eventually how painful it was, how many hours in labour…. and pretty soon you’re thinking you might like another trip. It’s not until that first 45-minute security lineup that you remember.
At 76 I am done with travel… been across the Atlantic so many times I’ve lost count. Have seen more than I ever thought I would. However…. if I had the chance to take the Orient Express from Paris to Venice… I just might go ONE more time.. That’s a trip I missed.
I’d love to do the Orient Express too Eowana. – MW
I seem to also remember a time when it was remarkable–as in the pilot would make a remark–if flying over the Grand Canyon, or the world’s largest open pit copper mine, or if Mt. Rainier could be seen by those on the left side of the plane… or I remember a pilot once infectiously ecstatic about “a colossal Cumulonimbus.” I miss that, as a kid it made being in the air feel especially special. But with all the in-your-face seat screens nowadays, I’m remarkably grateful there are even still windows?…
(Also remarkable, it occurs to me that means once upon a time I could interpret announcements over the intercom…)