
My new car (in 2013) on its maiden mulch run. It’s MUCH filthier now.
Weed Prevention with Green Mulch a/k/a Groundcovers
I SO agree with Elizabeth’s “Ode to Mulch,” especially this quote from an expert: “Mulch contributes to weed control by blocking the light that some unwanted species need to germinate. It also forms a barrier that prevents weed seeds from getting a foothold.”
There are still more benefits of mulch but let’s stop right there because you know what else has these important weed-prevention qualities? Some groundcovers! Not all – by far – but there ARE groundcovers that will prevent weeds quite effectively, once they’ve filled in. Imagine – no more weeds and no more mulching, either!
One well-known proponent of groundcovers instead of mulch is Thomas Rainer, who’s even ranted about this country’s “Mulch Addiction.”
Our use of mulch is so ubiquitous and so frequent, it is easy to forget how unusual this habit is. Traveling through Europe or Asia, however, the contrast is clear. In most other countries, it is the plants themselves that occupy the most space; here, however, mulch is often even more visually dominant than the plants themselves.
So if you agree and want to transition to groundcovers, which ones will do the job? It’s site- and climate-dependent, as always, but some plants are strong contenders, based on my experiments in using them to replace lawn.
For example, I tried a bunch of very low, walkable-type groundcovers in my former front yard, above, and the weed-suppression results were all over the place. I concluded that, with time, some of them may have been thick and tall enough to out-compete weeds – if I’d bought a lot more of them. And budget is always a factor.
But here’s a definite winner in the weed-suppression sweepstakes – the much-maligned Liriope spicata! Nobody loves it, but this homeowner has achieved an evergreen front yard that’s close to maintenance-free. Just raking if there are trees nearby, and where if it borders other plants, runners need to be removed. To me that beats mowing, and nothing needs to be applied, not even water in a periods of drought.

At the entrance to Greenbelt Homes, Inc.
Here’s another one – groundcover Comfrey. Like Liriope, it loves shade and can handle sun, too. It’s also thick and tall enough that no weed seeds get the chance to germinate. And so gorgeous. Even in winter, it covers the ground – though not as beautifully as right now. It fills in quickly, and bees love it!
To me that’s one lovely plant.
Here are a couple more groundcovers that suppress weeds, though with a bit more work involved. Without my intervention, the Sedum takesimense would overpower and eventually kill the Mondo Grass – which, by the way, has taken 10 full years to finally fill in! (I hear there’s one cultivar that fills in quickly but clearly that’s not what I bought.) I also have to keep the Creeping Jenny in check. This is my back-yard nook.

In my townhouse front yard in Old Greenbelt, Md.
For sunny spots, ‘Goldstrum’ Rudbeckia is dense enough to prevent weeds, but is so thuggish it’ll overpower most neighboring perennials.
That’s the thing about successful groundcovers – they get called bad names when they spread and encroach on other plants. We LOVE them for filling in quickly but when they start going where we don’t want them we have to keep in check.
What Else? Any Testimonials?
I’m leery of lists of recommended groundcovers, so often written by people who haven’t grown them over several seasons and can’t produce photos to prove their claims, but please, tell us if you’ve grown any that truly, really, honestly prevent weeds.
Wait! Gardeners Prefer Nuking Weeds to Pulling and Preventing Them?
I know Elizabeth is connected by Facebook groups with thousands of gardeners in Western NY and probably beyond, so she knows whereof she writes when she reports that:
I rarely hear gardeners talking about mulch to control weeds, at least not around here. They’re mixing soap with vinegar, they’re pouring boiling water, they’re laying down cardboard and tarp. They’re not pulling and mulching. I have been doing that for years and have seen significant weed reduction.
Gardeners of Western New York, just stop! Smell the mulch! Get yourself a good weeding tool and just do it. Then if you live long enough – weeding and mulching regularly – you might have a weed-free garden like my friend Melissa. She’s weeded and mulch her townhouse garden for over 30 years and now says it’s weed-free. When fresh weed seeds arrive by air they find no bare ground in her garden to start a new life.
And “plants as mulch” doesn’t have to be a mono-culture (e.g., Packera aurea and Eutrochium/Joe-Pye weed from awaytogarden.com/plants-mulch-nature-based-design-wisdoms-claudia-west/); curious if folks have favorite plant combinations as green mulch/groundcovers.
(Thanks for the tip that comfrey can take shade; will have to divide and move some of mine!)
Back atcha for the combo suggested by Claudia – essential info, and more needed! Coz if one plant can overpower a neighbor, it’ll increase our workload to keep the dominant one just where we want it. An example is the nook photo above, where the taller Sedum would completely cover the others. In a space this small, cutting it back isn’t a big deal, though.
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My moss garden has been surprisingly weed resistant, though not weed free. Like any groundcover it’s more maintenance up front, until it fills in.
Elsewhere, I spent an obscene amount of money on pine straw this spring, so much that I’m embarrassed to tell you. And the long needle stuff, which is more durable, has to be trucked in from south Georgia, a couple hundred miles away. I had enlarged my beds bc I though getting rid of turf was a good idea, but as of yet I have nothing to fill them with. Now I’m struggling to find GC that is deer and rabbit resistant, and tolerates Georgia clay.
I have success with Geranium Macrorrhizum, Luzula sylvatica ‘Aurea’ and dwarf Germander (Teucrium chamaedrys ‘Nana’).
I live in Northern Virginia. I have a shady and moist backyard. I planted one golden ragwort (packera aurea) seedling from Earth Sangha about five years ago. This year it has covered about 40 percent of the spaces where I had attempted to grow grass many years ago. In another year or two, it should cover nearly all of these spaces. I really appreciate it because, although it flowers for only a few weeks in the Spring, it’s leaves, shaped a bit like a large version of wood violet leaves, cover the bare spots in my yare well into the winter.
Thomas Ranier needs to get out more! If you look at the natural systems where our garden plants originate, the spaces are frequently not plant-next-to-plant, but are naturally mulched by leaves and plant debris. The drag the leaves away, then buy in mulch is our American obsession that should change. Solid ground cover is often a monoculture, which is not a healthy ecosystem, be it native or non-native.
I’ve grown Pachysandra for many years. It’s evergreen even in the cold Midwest. Once it takes hold, it effectively prevents other plants from growing through it. It does spread, but is easy to pull up where it’s not wanted.
I second the pachysandra. Well behaved, gentle growing habit. I do get Virginia Creeper in mine, but pachysandra is so tough you can walk right into the bed and pull out.
Ditto on the pachysandra success! I’m growing it in Tennessee Clay, zone 7, and the deer don’t usually touch it unless they are truly starving in January. Even then it doesn’t hurt it one bit. Evergreen year-round. It stays contained yet robust in this climate and conditions.
Ajuga filled in fast and thick for me. I no longer buy mulch. I shred the leaves with my mower and it works great. So much easier and cheaper.
Great rant.
I have a saying, it’s a fine line between a well spreading perennial and an invasive plant and this year brunnera crossed that line. I dug and gave away pots full.
We have a shade area where ginger has taken over, it might be next.
In sun we have a common sedum that is def over the line.
Hellebores take a while and may not be classified as ground cover but They crossed the line, I dug a couple dozen and shared.
Lamium is great and well behaved.
Epimedium works well for us.
If you want to see pics go to mygardenrocks on face book, I can’t seem to copy the link.
Craig and Donna in Covington Ky.
Ginger takes over? Which genus? Asarum? Zingigiber? Hedychium?
Asarum canadense can be thuggish. It is too happy in my woodland understory. Z 7 Memphis.
Thanks, Susan! I would just comment that when you already have a good planting of perennials with very little space showing, groundcover is not the weed solution; mulch is. I have been able to make those spaces smaller thanks to mulch. Otherwise, I’d be pulling way more weeds. In my shade garden, I like to have some quiet dark space here and there; it sets my ferns and hostas off; groundcovers would just add noise. But that is a particular situation. Thanks again for this great follow-up post with so much excellent info.
I live in N. Va. and think Green and Gold ((Chrysogonum virginianum) is a fabulous groundcover. It spreads readily, is easy to divide and transplant, and flowers like mad in Spring and Fall. It likes a bit of shade but will soldier on in full sun next to a sidewalk in a steamy Va. summer. I’m also letting wild violets go in the shaded areas of my garden. Years ago as a much pickier gardener I yanked them up but now see them as an asset. They are edible, enthusiastically self sow and enable me to apply the energy and dollars ordinarily spent on boring mulch to the acquisition of cool plants.
Due to my age and health, I have changed my standards this spring. Normally, I clean out all leaves and other debris down to the mulch. This year, my philosophy is to leave old leaves in place and remove only what will show once perennials and shrubs reach their full spring growth. Now that I’m almost done, I see lots of leaf pieces on the ground but no hosta stems or other old plant material etc that would show through the new perennial growth. The brown leaves are crinkled and dried up so they blend in with the left over mulch from previous years, and within a few weeks most of the ground will be covered with new plants and if there are bare spots it will look natural, but not a mess.
We’ve found white comfrey a most useful ground cover for both dry and moist shade. It has the added benefit of improving clay soil so prevalent here in western Pennsylvania. Also, comfrey is easy to remove once the soil is improved and then you are able to plant other, more finicky species in its place. We also grow Northern Sea Oats in drifts in dry shade on the eastern side of a copse of white pine and have allowed Ostrich Fern to spread at the bottom of our yard to hide the three large mulch piles. Both the Sea Oats and Ostrich Fern are able to compete with garlic mustard and slimy grass once those two invasive species have been weeded out.
We do use mulch in newly created gardens as we reduce our lawn areas to grassy paths between shrub and flower beds. Mulched gardens help new installations to thrive. Some previously purchased mulch introduced invasive species into our property. In the end, it’s a matter of personal taste. We prefer jam-packed flora to vast areas of mulch of any kind.
Our comment should read “stilt grass” not “slime grass”.
I second ajuga! It loves my wet clay but is happy in normal garden soil. Sun or shade. It covers the ground, doesn’t spread too quickly, but still fills in. Best of all: it’s shallow rooted and super easy to pull up.
Lenten rose will also do the trick… it’s evergreen here and self-sows readily (although one must wait a few years for plants to mature).
Disappointed to see all the non-native ground covers mentioned. I would prefer mulch to the aggressive and often invasive plants.
Ceratostigma plumbaginoides (Hardy Plumbago) is a fine groundcover in my garden. It takes a while to get established, but it’s tough as nails once settled. Grows to about 10″, and has beautiful little, true sapphire-blue flowers in late summer. Then when the weather cools, the leaves turn a nice mahogany red. It is slow to emerge in spring, so the first couple of years I had to weed, but now it suppresses most weeds. If you prefer natives, this isn’t for you, though; it’s from western China.
I like common companula. It has vulgar in it’s Latin name. Gets 6-8″ tall, with dusty pink nodding bells. Weaves thru all the other plants and is easy to pull out. Looks good all summer, but disappears in winter. I use mulch in new beds.
Charles was horrified when I first met his mother and replied to her query about a plant with ‘Mind your own Business.’ (Soleirolia soleirolii) It works in paving.
I founded my garden on Graham Stuart Thomas’s book ‘Plants for Ground Cover.’ Still findable in the UK and I recommend.
I tried a ton of groundcovers over the years. Golden creeping jenny (lysimachia nummularia aurea) brings beautiful color to darker areas of the garden, but it’s simply too aggressive. Mazus reptans seems to go the same way – although it blooms nicely, it is overwhelming the garden.
Still like creeping saxifrage (saxifrage stolonifera) which does a really great job in suppressing weeds, in sun and shade. Love hens and chicks as ground covers for the ease with which they can be grown and the fun they provide. There are many low-growing sedums doing a spectacular job as weed suppressors. Not to mention a number of carexes which love to spread and build beautiful barriers against weeds, and also prevent mulch from being washed down the slope by major downpours…
As for natives: Not all phloxes grow in my garden, but they once that do, I spread everywhere. Appalachian violet is a spectacular ground cover, but unfortunately growing very slowly. Gold and Green (chrysogonium virginianum) is lovely, and never minds being propagated. Same with pulmonaria, comfrey (symphytum officinale), and sweet woodruff (galium odoratum). And of course native dwarf irises: Planted two varieties last year, and they are already spreading. Next to try: partridge berry (mitchella reptans), supposedly a truly lovely ground cover.
As for mulch: I have a 4-foot wide mulch barrier along all four sides of my property. It is supposed to keep ticks out and allows me to monitor weeds trying to grow their way into the garden. With that “sanitary corridor” and constant, all-year round weeding, I was able to get most weeds out, including invasive stuff like Japanese stilt grass. But wind, birds, squirrels will always bring weed seeds inside. Weeding becomes much easier over the years, that’s true, but the vigilance can never stop.
Susan is too modest to recommend Evelyn Hadden’s book Beautiful No-Mow Yards which feature’s Susan’s yard and comments. I’m glad our local garden club had Evelyn speak.
I second the vote for a perimeter barrier of groundcover. I’m my case it’s to keep soil and the bit of mulch I use from washing onto the sidewalk. Taller plants might flop into the walkway. I bought two flats of mixed sedum groundcovers marked down to half price a few years back and divided it. It grew beyond expectations–compact and dense, really easy to divide and transplant when I need some in another bed. Almost no maple seeds penetrate it!
I also love ajuga, including Pink Lightning. The variegation has been lost as it spread, but it’s still dense and the spikey pink flowers are welcome in the spring garden. I’m in Metro Detroit and my bed, which used to be my front lawn, has soil that’s just so-so and only new plants get watered. Save trees…plant groundcovers!
Well, if you insist…https://www.amazon.com/Beautiful-No-Mow-Yards-Amazing-Alternatives/dp/1604692383
I live under lots of mature hardwoods in central NC, so lots of dry shade. Some favorite native ground covers: I like Green & Gold (Chrysogonum virginianum) too, especially the spreading variety “Pierre” which has covered lots of areas under trees starting from one plant. It grows in the gravel driveway too, blooms for about 3 months and nothing bothers it. The only disadvantage is that some later emerging plants like Spigelia marilandica seem to have a hard time competing with it. Partridgeberry (Mitchella repens) is wonderful but slow to get established for me. It was worth it, now have carpets blooming with foamflower & other large plants blooming through it. I like the wild Luzula acuminata too because it seeds around randomly in the corners between tree roots and has interesting little brown flowers. Viola walteri “Silver Gem” is another nice mat forming plant with beautiful leaves & tiny flowers. White wood aster spreads nicely under the trees and the leaves look good before the show of flowers in late summer. In some places the woodland blue Phlox divaricata spreads nicely for me, but in other spots the rabbits eat it faster than I can plant it.
Oops, that name should be Red Maple
I live in East Tennessee and grow a creeping thyme. It grows in a very dry sunny area and is only a couple of inches high.
It’s such a great topic here. I do love mazus reptans. Not even grass penetrates it very easily. I am beyond sick of my neighbors English ivy creeping over to my yard so please choose wisely people! It’s hard to know what will be thought of as invasive later on…but my little tip is, if it can’t spread in the shade very well, it’s likely not going to carpet American woodlands as an invasive. But who knows what we will know about our groundcover choices in many years from now. I also love to just cram, cram, cram the plants in and mulch very little. I can never understand the wonton desire for people to remove leaves from fall unless they are suffocating perennials or peonies, etc. Leaves are an excellent free mulch. Do I get weeds probably from not being so tidy? Sure. But it makes more sense to me than removing natures free mulch (leaves) in favor of trucking in backbreaking loads of mulch.
Love moss and comfrey as ground cover, very helpful and lovely too! I featured your article in my newsletter, maybe a few more readers will learn about those alternatives ground covers! https://www.veg-geek.com/newsletters/13052022 😉